That is what they call those wine guys, right? Winers? Big bunch of cork-sniffing, sloshing around, knowing more than I do about vintages, refinements and adjectives, Winers. Anyway, this was long overdue to appear here, Matthew Bloody Olson's public debut into the civilized and educated society that is the world of the sommelier.
KULERS UNCORKED: Conversant with a world of seasonal choices
Gil Kulers - For the Journal-Constitution
Thursday, May 4, 2006
Consider the plight of the poor sommelier, otherwise known as the steward or the wine guy/gal in a restaurant. He must get to work at 2, sometimes 3 in the afternoon to taste wines, then he's got to polish some glasses before serving guests who typically are very happy to see him.
OK, let's reconsider the "plight" of the wine guy. It's not the worst job in the world, but for some it can be a bit more challenging. In most instances, the manager of the wine program is responsible for maintaining a stock of wine that jibes with the restaurant's character and that changes three, maybe four times a year, more or less in tune with the seasons.
Then there is the wine list at Woodfire Grill, a restaurant with a menu that changes with the time of day, or so it may seem to Matt Olson, the new chief wine picker at Woodfire.
For the uninitiated, Woodfire's chef, Michael Tuohy, is the sultan of fresh and seasonal cuisine. Whether it's white asparagus, wild Alaskan salmon or artichokes, Tuohy practically meets the tractor, truck or boat halfway to Atlanta before running back to his kitchen with visions of new menu items dancing in his head. Then it's Olson's job to have a selection of wines that whirls and twirls with Tuohy's lead.
"Our menu is so timely that it can't help but be one of the most unique in the city on any given day," says the 29-year-old Olson. "I have a responsibility that my list reflects that. It's going to be different and unique."
Olson views his ever-changing wine list as a blessing and a curse. Sure, he has the phone numbers of all the wine distributors on speed-dial as he tries to keep up with Tuohy's rapid menu reinventions. On the other hand, a constantly changing wine list requires customers, even regulars, to ask for a suggestion or two. This offers Olson and the dining room staff, who are regularly debriefed on the comings and goings of the wine list, to nudge diners toward a wine they otherwise would not consider.
"That's when you get them to drink a vernaccia di San Gimignano or a xarmont txakoli," Olson says.
A native Georgian born in East Point and a graduate of Druid Hills High School, Olson traveled far afield to learn about Basque wines that start with the letter X (and how to pronounce zar-MANT cha-KOH-lee). He graduated in 2005 from the Dubrulle International Culinary Arts program at British Columbia's Art Institute of Vancouver. Not that he doesn't know his way around a saute pan; his instructors encouraged Olson to pursue a career in wine because of his capacity for the subject. It came as a surprise to no one that he finished at the top of his wine studies class.
An internship with sommelier Barbara Philip at the Fish House in Stanley Park in Vancouver sealed the deal for Olson. "She taught me about the fine points of wine and food, but she also showed me the practical aspects of running a wine department," Olson says. "She was willing to look past my lack of experience and give me a chance."
A scenario that doesn't sound a lot different from Olson's story at Woodfire. Olson started at Woodfire in January as a bartender. Tuohy saw the same aptitude and energy as Philip and the chef-instructors at Dubrulle. When Woodfire wine director Greg Koetting left in March to work on chef Paul Albrecht's latest project, Tuohy gave Olson a chance.
"He's got a real good approach to wine," Tuohy says.
"He's real articulate, and it's easy to see when someone has the fire and passion. I'm really looking forward to a long-term relationship with Matt and I'm excited to have someone like him on staff."
While still adapting to his new responsibilities, Olson remains realistic about what he can and can't do with customers, regardless of the season or the seasonality of the 3-year-old restaurant's cuisine.
"It always amazes me when businessmen come in and say I want your best Napa cabernet and it's 95 degrees out," Olson says with a laugh. "But my No. 1 philosophy is you got to give people what they want. A lot of people only want what they are comfortable with. Some people leave you no opportunity for discussion. They want the Silver Oak Cab and that's it."
It's the other customers who pause to ask about Woodfire's wide breadth of selections from far-flung corners of the earth that get Olson up in the morning --- or the afternoon, as the case may be.
"If people are open to asking a question, then that is the opportunity to lead them," Olson says.
"When it comes to wine, everyone wants to feel like they have good taste and a strong palate and a sophisticated sense of what is good. My job is to help them achieve that."
Gil Kulers is a wine and food educator based in Stone Mountain.
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
We asked Matt Olson, Woodfire Grill's wine guy, to give us his top six wines of Spring and his impressions of them. Most of these wines are widely available in the metro area. We've suspended the thumbs up/thumbs down ratings system for this week.
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2004 X Chardonnay
Carneros, Calif.
$16
Light oakiness and a creamy, rather than buttery, mouthfeel make this a perfect spring wine for folks who can't live without California chardonnay. Tropical fruit flavors keep you coming back for more.
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2004 Castano Rosado
Yecla, Spain
$10
Buy a case of this easy, dry spring rose for backyard cookouts. Nice light cherry flavor, with enough spice to stand up to the grill, and you can't beat the price.
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2002 Gramona Grand Cuvee
Cava, Penedes, Spain
$16
Looking for the flavors and textures of champagne, but just a little bit different? This is your wine. This cava's peachy, nutty, toasty goodness practically begs for fried chicken.
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2000 Jean-Baptiste Adam
Cremant d'Alsace, France
$14
This fantastic bottle of spring bubbly punches way above its weight class. A fine, creamy mousse unfolds over the tongue into flavors of pear and apple.
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2003 Icardi,
L'Aurora, Cortese, Piemonte, Italy
$11
This lean and crisp white wine made from the cortese grape is from northern Italy and brings a touch of elegance to the picnic. Like a decent chablis at half the price, this bottle will satisfy wine snobs and regular people alike.
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2004 Fireblock Rose,
Clare Valley, Australia
$18
A top-shelf rose that refreshes like a white wine but satisfies your inner red wine drinker. Berry fruit galore slides into a long, peppery finish. Full-flavored enough to handle your brother-in-law's fiery barbecue sauce.
So there you have it. Vats and vats of wisdom from the Mattster. Still, I wonder what is the best wine for shotgunning a bottle and then pitching over the backyard fence onto one's head. Matt doesn't really cover that here. Also, if Matt invites you down to his personal cellar for a taste of a particularly fine Amontillado, don't go. Especially you, Josh. He's still pissed at you over that horse racing/Cuban exile thing.
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